The elder tree is a remarkable thing. It doesn’t look like much – it’s more of a weedy shrub or a shrubby weed than a tree – but it gives us fragrant elderflowers early in the season, and deliciously winey elderberries at this time of the year. Continue reading
A rack of pork is a splendid thing and makes an eye-catching and generous Sunday lunch. Cooking chops en masse this way ensures they come out perfectly succulent. Like yours better done? Eat the end ones. Prefer your pork a bit pinker? Plump for one from the middle. Continue reading
I’ve always wondered why the ready-made breadcrumbs you can buy in the UK are a lurid orange, as are many of the pre-breaded food products on display in the shops, such as fish fingers and chicken. This is not the case in other countries. Japanese panko breadcrumbs are beige and so are the Spanish ones sold for croquetas. Continue reading
I first had a version of these tartlets at Brasserie Julien in Paris, with its ravishing Belle Epoque painted ladies (on the walls, not at the tables), giant mirrors and stained glass ceiling panels. It’s hard to focus on the food when you’re gawping at the decor, but these stuck in my mind for 20 years. Continue reading
I’m a recent convert to beetroot. I’d always hated them after being force-fed pickled beets at infants’ school, but a recipe in Olia Hercules lovely book Kaukasis taught me that they are a root to be savoured, not spat out (sorry, I was only four and a half). Continue reading
I got home from a night out with the girls recently to find my husband had lit the fire. In June. So here’s a recipe for those summer evenings when you don’t want to eat anything too autumnal/wintry in flavour but it’s chilly enough to need a jumper. Continue reading
Picture: Till Niermann
Supposedly, triumphant Roman emperors and/or generals had a slave riding behind them at victory parades, whispering in their ears words to the effect of ‘remember you are mortal’ or ‘glory passes’. History suggests most were deaf to the hints. Continue reading
I’m usually a thrifty cook although my husband, who (bless him) does the household accounts and gets to see my shopping bills, might not agree. Once in a while, though, you have to push the boat out and I have to confess that when it comes to two of my favourite ingredients – seafood and asparagus – I go a bit wild. Continue reading
Less Scandi noir, more Scandi blonde, the flavours in this dish are subtle but delicious and the buttermilk bath helps keep the chicken juicy. It’s as good cold as it is hot, if you have any leftovers. Continue reading
A bit like a schnitzel but with a nutty, zesty, herby crumb, these take minutes to make and cook and are really quite addictive. Serve them with lots of lemon to squeeze over. Continue reading
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