Less a recipe, more a fridge and cupboard raid, but a godsend when you want a summery supper with minimum effort. If it’s still raining where you are, put a woolly on and pretend you’re at the British seaside. A flask of stewed tea helps the illusion but a glass of wine would probably be preferable. Continue reading
Saltimbocca means ‘leap in the mouth’, presumably because it’s so good your tastebuds jump for joy. Like so much Italian food, it’s the simplest of dishes, its impact relying on good ingredients and precise cooking. Continue reading
Hand on heart, I’ve never seen so many hams in my life, even at a rugby international. Wall to wall and floor to ceiling, the curing rooms at Salumificio Viani were ham-packed. (Sorry.) Continue reading
This is one of my Top Three soups, rich and velvety but tangy, perfect as a starter or a hot canape shot. You do need a large amount of sorrel though, so it’s best attempted if you grow your own (or know someone who does) or can buy it in a really big bunch from your local farmers’ market. Continue reading
It’s a sad fact that returning from a trip abroad is always a bit of a downer – the mundanity of unpacking, washing your smalls and returning to the daily grind, not to mention the unpredictable English weather. But when your suitcase is full of enticing things to eat, it certainly makes easing back into real life a lot more pleasant. Continue reading
Pies and tarts and crumbles are wonderful, but rhubarb works brilliantly in savoury recipes too, so I sprang to attention with quivering whiskers when a friend told me she’d used it in a sweet and sour stir-fry. Continue reading
I thought it was a joke when I heard that some enterprising company was selling so-called Brexit Boxes, a stock of freeze-dried meals (and a water filter and fire starter) to see householders through any food shortages following a No Deal Brexit. I laughed even harder when I realised they were charging nearly £300. Continue reading
Well, I did warn you I’d bought an awful lot of mutton and hoggett. But this recipe works just as well for lamb chops and if you like a bit of spice in your life, I think you’ll enjoy it. Continue reading
Milk-fed lamb makes sense if you’re living in a culture where you cook on an open fire and long, slow braises are pretty much out of the question. Who wouldn’t prefer something you can chew easily after giving it a quick flash in the pan?
But for those of us with more options it makes sense, to me anyway, to opt for something that’s had time to mature and develop flavour. I love lamb, preferably one that’s had time to roam the fields and put on a bit of heft. But if I can lay my hands on some hogget or mutton, I’m a happy woman. Continue reading
There’s something pathetically froggy about spatchcocked poussins but my word, they taste good and they cook a lot faster, staying deliciously juicy. They make a fabulous supper and a very good dinner party dish. Minimum effort, maximum flavour. Continue reading
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