This is the best sort of comfort food, the flavours bursting out of that glorious suet crust with beefy, fruity bravado. I think I’m in danger of over-egging this particular pudding but honestly, give it a go before the quince season slips through our fingers, it’s really good. Continue reading
This pie is my interpretation of one in Thomas Dawson’s The Good Housewife’s Jewel, first published at the end of the 16th century, and the latest in my new series of historical recipes. I’ve followed his suggestions for both pastry and filling as faithfully as I can, because although Dawson gave more detail than many of his contemporaries, there’s still plenty of room for guesswork and because I’ve adapted it to modern tastes. Continue reading
It’s been a phenomenal year for plums here in our part of Suffolk and we’ve been in a race with the wasps to see who can get there first. Luckily, we have so much fruit, there’s plenty left for wildlife of all sorts.
The last to ripen have been the black bullace and damsons. The bullace tree in particular is so laden, the plums are hanging like bunches of grapes. As the jam cupboard is already full, we opted for a chutney and I honestly think it’s one of the best we’ve ever made. Continue reading
Jalousie: mid 18th century, French, literally ‘jealousy’, from Italian geloso ‘jealous’, also (by extension) ‘screen’, associated with the screening of women from view (Oxford Languages). The internet is a wonderful thing.
In this case a jalousie is a puff pastry pie with the top slashed to resemble (allegedly) a jalousie or louvred blind. It can be savoury or sweet and in this case proved to be the perfect vehicle for the greengages I picked from our tree, although you can use any plums you have handy. Continue reading
I was in two minds whether to post this recipe because, frankly, it is Brown Food and Brown Food rarely photographs well. It does however taste really good, and I refuse to be railroaded by social media likes, so I ask you to take a leap of faith and trust me on this one. It’s a good recipe if you’ve got an over-abundance of plums or (like me) an over-stuffed freezer. Continue reading
This is one of those minimum effort, maximum flavour sort of meals, always a bonus in the run-up to Christmas when you’re planning for the days ahead but you still want something that looks and tastes good. Alternatively, put the recipe in your back pocket for New Year. Continue reading
Beef, or ox, cheeks are perfect for slow cooking, cheap and full of flavour. They’re well worth seeking out. A good butcher should be able to help and you can also ask him/her to trim them up for you, although that’s easy enough to do at home.
I’ve cooked them here with quince and pomegranate in a Persian/Iranian-inspired stew. Meltingly soft meat and a gently spiced, sour/sweet fruity sauce – delicious.This is one of the best things I’ve made this year. Continue reading
I posted this recipe on Instagram last year but it is so good I thought it was worth resurrecting and re-sharing. It’s a great way of using autumn fruits in a savoury side dish and it’s a shoo-in as part of Sunday lunch. Continue reading
I’ve been experimenting with strawberry ice cream but then realised I wanted the pure, clean taste of the fruit to shine through, so decided on a sorbet instead. Modesty forbids me to tell you just how good it is. Continue reading
“Take medlars that are rotten, strain them, and set them on a chaffing dish of coals, season them with sugar, cinamon, and ginger, put some yolks of eggs to them, let it boil a little, and lay it in a cut tart. Being baked, scrape on sugar.” The Accomplisht Cook, Robert May, 1660/1665. Continue reading