Felled by a particularly noxious cold, all I want to eat right now is a vat of turkey broth. But if you’re looking for something light and veggie in the aftermath of Christmas you might enjoy this butternut and chard roulade.
It’s a recipe I wrote for January’s edition of Suffolk magazine and although it looks rather like a Swiss roll, it tastes more like an ethereal omelette. The filling gives it texture, zest and a bit of cheesy goodness. My thanks to Steph Clubb for the inspo.
I’m afraid wit and coherent sentences elude me today. Brevity must suffice, sorry.
You will need a Swiss roll tin approx. 23cm x 30cm.
I wish you all a happy new year and hopefully a healthy one, too. [cough]
Butternut and Chard Roulade
For the roulade:
50g plain flour
4 eggs, separated
40g grated parmesan, plus more to garnish
150g soft goat’s cheese
1 tbsp creme fraiche
3 tbsp grated parmesan (optional, if the goat’s cheese is very mild)
2 tbsp chopped parsley
Zest and juice of ½ lemon
400g butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1cm dice
A small bunch of chard, washed and dried
1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely sliced
1 tbsp oil
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp finely chopped sage leaves
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Salt and pepper
Make the fillings first. For the goat’s cheese layer, just mix all the ingredients in a bowl, cover and refrigerate. Now strip the chard leaves from the stems and slice them finely. Trim the stems and cut into 1cm dice. Keep separate.
Melt the butter and oil in a large frying pan and add the diced butternut. Season with salt and black pepper and saute gently, stirring occasionally, until the squash is soft and its edges have caramelised. Halfway through, add the chard stems, garlic and spring onions, stir and continue to cook.
Once the squash and chard stems are tender, stir through the shredded chard leaves, put on a lid and allow to wilt. Remove the lid, stir in the sage leaves and deglaze with the balsamic vinegar, turning up the heat a little so there’s almost no liquid left in the pan. Check the seasoning and set aside to cool.
Heat the oven to 190C/170 fan/Gas Mark 5. Oil the swiss roll tin and line it with a sheet of oiled baking paper. Melt the butter in a saucepan until foaming. Stir in the flour and cook for a minute or two until it’s bubbling gently, then remove from the heat and gradually stir in the milk until it’s smooth and combined. Place back on the heat and cook, stirring, for five minutes until thickened. Add the grated parmesan and cook for a further couple of minutes. Remove from the heat.
Separate the eggs. Place the whites in a clean, dry bowl and using an electric whisk, beat to stiff but not dry peaks. Set aside.
Once the cheese sauce has cooled enough that you can comfortably place your hand on the side of the pan, beat the egg yolks into the sauce one at a time. Add a third of the egg white mixture, cutting it in gently with a metal tablespoon until blended. Add the remaining egg white and fold until combined, trying not to knock all the air out.
Pour straight into the lined swiss roll tin, tipping the tin so it reaches the corners. Tap the tin on the counter gently to make sure it’s level. Place in the oven for 15 minutes or until risen and golden. Don’t overcook it or it will be hard to roll.
When done, remove from the oven and loosen the sides with a palette knife. Place a sheet of baking paper the size of your tin on a clean tea towel and turn out the roulade. Remove the lining paper and let the roulade cool for a couple of minutes.
Spread with the goat’s cheese filling then scatter evenly with the butternut squash mixture. Starting at a short end and using the baking paper to guide you, roll as tightly as you can into a cylinder. Place it seam-side down on a serving board or plate, and grate over a little more parmesan. Eat at room temperature.