I’ve loved kedgeree ever since a schoolfriend’s mum cooked a salmon version when I went round for sleepovers. She must have got rather tired of me begging for it every time I visited but to a child who’d grown up on traditional English pies and roasts it was the height of sophistication and exoticism.
These days I use pearly, un-dyed smoked haddock rather than salmon. Buttery, moist and spicy, this kedgeree is based on one I was shown how to make by C.J. Jackson from the Billingsgate Seafood School, who does brilliant fish prep and cookery courses.
It makes a very good Sunday brunch and is particularly welcome around Christmas if you’ve overdosed on poultry. Add a few handfuls of frozen peas towards the end and it’ll do you proud as a one-pot weekday supper.
Smoked Haddock Kedgeree
140g long grain rice (dry weight), freshly cooked and kept warm
1 fillet of un-dyed smoked haddock
200-300 ml milk
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tspn curry powder
1/2 tspn turmeric
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh ginger
1 green chilli, finely chopped
Place the haddock, skin-side down, in a single layer in a pan with enough milk to almost cover it. Put on a lid and bring to the boil. Simmer for a minute or two, remove from the heat and set aside while you fry the onions, by which time it will be cooked through.
Sweat the shallots in the butter until soft and golden. Add the chilli, ginger and spices and fry for a minute or two.
Remove the haddock from the milk (keep the milk to use as a soup base), remove the skin and break the fish into large chunks. Add it to the onion pan with the hot cooked rice and the peas, if using, and mix gently.